Chiang Mai Province

Chiang Mai (Thai: เชียงใหม่, sometimes written as “Chiengmai” or “Chiangmai”), is the largest city in northern Thailand. It is the capital of Chiang Mai Province and was a former capital of the Kingdom of Lan Na (1296–1768), which became the Kingdom of Chiang Mai, a tributary state of Siam from 1774 to 1899 and finally the seat of a merely ceremonial prince until 1939.

It is 700 km (435 mi) north of Bangkok and is situated amongst the highest mountains in the country. The city sits astride the Ping River, a major tributary of the Chao Phraya River.

Chiang Mai means “new city” and was so named because it became the new capital of the Lan Na kingdom when it was founded in 1296, succeeding Chiang Rai, the former capital founded in 1262. Chiang Mai gained prominence in the political sphere in May 2006, when the Chiang Mai Initiative was concluded between the ASEAN nations and the “+3” countries (China, Japan, and South Korea).

Chiang Mai was one of three Thai cities contending for Thailand’s bid to host the World Expo 2020 (the others were Chonburi and Ayutthaya). Ayutthaya, however, was the city ultimately chosen by the Thai Parliament to register for the international competition.

Chiang Mai has positioned itself to become a Creative City and is considering applying for Creative City status with UNESCO. Chiang Mai was one of two tourist destinations in Thailand on TripAdvisor‘s 2014 list of “25 Best Destinations in the World”, where it stands at number 24. Chiang Mai’s historic importance is derived from its close proximity to the Ping River and major trading routes.

While officially the city (thesaban nakhon) of Chiang Mai only covers most parts of the Mueang Chiang Mai district with a population of 160,000, the city’s sprawl extends into several neighboring districts. The Chiang Mai Metropolitan Area has a population of nearly one million people, more than half the total of Chiang Mai Province.

The city is subdivided into four wards (khwaeng): Nakhon Ping, Srivijaya, Mengrai, and Kawila. The first three are on the west bank of the Ping River, and Kawila is on the east bank. Nakhon Ping district comprises the north part of the city. Srivijaya, Mengrai, and Kawila consist of the west, south, and east parts, respectively. The city center—within the city walls—is mostly within Srivijaya ward.

Nestled amongst forested foothills, Chiang Mai is much older than it first appears. During the city’s medieval heyday, almost everything was made of teak hauled by elephant from the surrounding rainforest, with the notable exception of its towering wát. The monasteries still remain, centred on ancient brick chedi (stupas) in a remarkable range of shapes and styles, but the gaps between them have been filled in with modern Thai houses and traveller hotels. Despite this, the historic centre of Chiang Mai still feels overwhelmingly residential, more like a sleepy country town than a bustling capital.

A sprawling modern city has grown up around ancient Chiang Mai, ringed by a tangle of superhighways, but if you drive in a straight line in any direction, you’ll soon find yourself in the lush green countryside of northern Thailand. A short ride by motorcycle or chartered rót daang (‘red truck’) will deliver you to pristine rainforest reserves, churning waterfalls, serene forest wát, bubbling hot springs and peaceful country villages – as well as a host of adventure camps, elephant sanctuaries and souvenir markets.

NIGHT BAZAAR

The Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai is probably the best place in all of Thailand to buy your commonplace souvenirs at the absolute best prices. Printed tees, candle holders, shawls and other everyday items are overflowing from the endless stalls in this area. There are actually several parts to the night bazaar, with indoor and outdoor sections on either side of Chang Klan Road, so our advice is to start from the intersection in front of Le Meridien Hotel and simply explore. Along the way there are snacks, drinks and ice creams to try, and many restaurants serving a wide range of regional cuisines are also in the area.

Opening Hours: 18:00 – 24:00

Location: Around the intersection of Loi Kroh Street and Chang Klan Street

CITY CENTER RESTAURANTS

Anusarn Food Court: Situated behind the Night Market, we have the Anusarn Food Court offering a range of fare which is for the most part, freshly made to order. Expect a high concentration of fresh seafood eateries, with fish on ice or tanks on display outside. Although the food court is a little more expensive than your typical Thai street food, a meal here is still relatively inexpensive.

Al Hussain: The best Arabic food in Chiang Mai vouched for by the chef and the legion of loyal customers spoken to. The delicious selection of dishes include mutton masala, briyani mutton, chicken and fish, paneer, daal, mixed vegetables, paratha, naan and garlic naan. All made with imported ingredients from India and Pakistan, this truly is a gem to be cherished for those who favour Middle Eastern and Indian fare.

Favola at Le Meridien Hotel: The Sunday Brunch at Favola is fantastic, although a bit pricey you can feast on authentic Italian recipes prepared by native chef Gustavo Maurelli. Situated on the second floor of the Le Meridien hotel. Thursdays are a always a good time to eat here as they have ‘lucky Thursdays’ where you can flip the Favola dice to win discounts, vouchers or to have Favola take care of your bill. The décor is spacious and airy, with lots of glass and marble components.

Food Courts: Each of the markets that comprise the Night Bazaar has a food court where cheap food is obtained on a prepaid token basis. (remove you buy the token firsts and then trade them with the vendor in question that has the food you want, can be enjoyed). This isn’t necessarily the most pleasant way to eat and you do forgo table service but on the plus side it’s convenient for a mid-shopping snack and offers a good choice and really tasty food.

Giorgio’s Italian Restaurant: This intimate and long-standing restaurant has a reputation as one of Chiang Mai’s finer eateries. Featuring an old-school Italian interior, complete with checkered tablecloths and candlelit lighting, the menu features a great selection of pastas, pizzas and meat-based dishes. The wine list is varied and reasonably priced, with staff happy to match a wine to a particular dish.

Kalare Food Court: This is divided into two sections, with each section featuring different shows for the entertainment. One side serves food from around the globe both freshly prepared (mainly Thai street food) or pre cooked and heated up. The opposite half is slightly more expensive with the food choices being predominantly Thai and seafood base.

CHIANG MAI NIGHT SAFARI

Predators of the Night

Hunters of the Night (Night Predators) everybody To experience life to the life of wild animals. Such as Bear, smooth-coated otter, porcupine, wild boar, hyenas, tigers, lions closely up during the show. 05:20 pm, 6:50 pm and 08:40 pm.

Children World

The amusement park for children (Children World) discover a new activity for children to stimulate learning wide spectrum of skills for youth, such as Chiang Mai’s biggest ball home. outdoor Amusement unique and like no other all day from 11:00 am – 07:00 pm.

Creatures of the Night Show

Safari Dancing show, you will surprisingly with a spectacular cabaret show, Safari Dancing group’s everyday and daily four round at about 06:00 pm. 07:00 pm. 08:00 pm. and 09:00 pm.

The Tiger Show

Tiger Show, a variety of species including tigers, the most exotic species of tigers in India. The white tiger Indochinese tiger and white lion performances from Mon – Thu and Sun: 06.00 pm – 07.30 pm. Fri – Sat: 06.00 pm – 07.30 pm and 08.30 pm.

Call Center: +66 (0) 53-999-000

Fax: +66 (0) 53-999-099

Address: 33 Moo 12, Nong Khwai, Hang Dong, Chiang Mai 50230, Thailand

Chiang Mai Old City is practically a living museum. Its narrow streets are lined with beautiful temples, old shophouses and historical buildings, all surrounded by the crumbling ancient walls and the moat. It’s quite a small, compact place, so you can easily get around on foot without tiring yourself out, allowing you to enjoy the city’s relaxed atmosphere and interesting scenery. Naturally, the temples are the star attractions of the Old City. You should definitely check out Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh and Wat Phan Tao, but there are several more within easy reach.

Located in attractive countryside about 5 km south of Chiang Mai along the Ping River, Wiang Kum Kam is an ancient city dating back to the eighth-century Haripunchai Kingdom. Expect to see many interesting items and structures such as stone tablets with Mon inscriptions, Buddhist sculptures and architecture, earthenware and pottery. Taking a horse-led carriage is a popular way to enjoy the ruins.

Opening Hours: 08:00 – 17:00 

Location: About 5 km southeast of the Old City Tel: +66 (0)53 277 322

TEMPLES

There are more than 300 temples in Chiang Mai and its outskirts, with a dozen stand-outs of historical or architectural significance within walking distance of each other. Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai exhibit a mixture of Lanna Thai, Burmese, Sri Lankan and Mon architectural styles that reflect the varied heritage of Northern Thailand.

Though certain temples on the conventional tourist circuit can be overrun with loud groups it is not hard to find many less well-known, but no less interesting, temples quietly and gently crumbling in the absence of tourist hordes. Whichever you visit, keep in mind that the temples are sacred religious places of deep cultural significance for the locals. Show respect by wearing appropriate attire (long pants for men, modest tops and skirts for women, no bare shoulders or plunging necklines and women must wear a bra). You must take off your shoes before entering the temple or other buildings, but they may be worn in the courtyard. Taking photographs of Buddha images is no problem, but it is polite to ask before taking pictures of monks or locals. All temples are free.

Below is a list of Temples in Chiang Mai (within the walled city).

Wat Phra Singh, Corner of Singharaj Rd and Rajdamnern Rd. Probably Chiang Mai’s best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of most historical interest is the Wihan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well.

These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from the rain, floods and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress, and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen.

To enter the temple is free for Thais, and 20 baht for foreigners. The ticket is in a leaflet form containing useful information and map of Wat Phra Singh complex.

Wat Chiang Man, Rajpakinai Rd. The oldest royal temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha images, which according to legend are 1,800 and 2,500 years old. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Man is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago. 

Wat Chedi Luang, Prapokklao Rd. Almost in the centre of Chiang Mai are the remains of a massive chedi that toppled in in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 m.

After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, restored sections hint at its former glory. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the “Pillar of the City”, a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites.  

Wat Phrachao Mengrai, Ratchamanka 6, Phra Sing (near Heuan Phen Restaurant), +66 53 278 788 ‎. An atmospheric temple with two Wihan buildings, off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling. One of the Wihan buildings houses an important Buddha image: Phra Buddha Rupa Phra Chao Mengrai.  

Wat Jet Yod (วัดเจ็ดยอด. Sometimes called Wat Chet Yot), Superhighway (about 1 km north of the Huay Kaew Rd/superhighway intersection). The history and unusual architecture scattered under the yawning canopy of ancient trees is an pleasant antidote to the flash and bustle encountered at popular temples.

Established in 1455 to host the eighth World Buddhist Council, many features of the grounds imitate significant places of the Buddha’s enlightenment. Originally called Botharam Maha Vihata in honour of the venerated Bodhi tree, it came to be known as Wat Jet Yod by locals, after the seven spires (Jet Yod) protruding from the roof of the Vihara. The square-sided design of the Virhra is a replica of Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, though the translation has distorted proportions somewhat.

Remnants of the graceful stucco relief murals that adorned the walls depict angels with a distinctly Indian flavour. The grounds also hold some more recently built, but abandoned looking, eroded chedis and buckling bases of vanished halls, overshadowed by a fully intact, though more diminutive, replica of ‘Chedi Luang that was built around 1487 to house the ashes of King Tilokarat.  

Wat Suan Dok (Suthep Rd). A large open-sided hall with a jumble of roughly hewn Buddhas with a huge dazzlingly whitewashed chedi behind.  

Wat Umong, off Suthep Rd (at the end of a long narrow road, off Suthep Rd. Turn at the Italian restaurant.). >An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate.

It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible. The large stupa is magnificent, and there is an eerie statue of a fasting, emaciated Buddha next to it. You can also take a break by the ponds, where you can feed the fish and turtles. free. 

Sacred Heart Cathedral, 225 Charoenprathet Road Tambon Chang Khlan, Amphoe Muang (3 min. south of the Old Steel Bridge on the city wall side of the river), 0-5327-1859 (fax: 0-5321-1876). Daily Roman Catholic Mass Monday to Saturday in Thai: 7 PM. Sunday Mass in Thai: 6:30 AM, 8:30 AM, 6:00 PM. Sunday Mass in English: 11 AM. free. 

DOI SUTHEP

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a Theravada wat in Chiang Mai Province, Thailand. The temple is often referred to as “Doi Suthep” although this is actually the name of the mountain where it’s located. It is a sacred site to many Thai people. The temple is 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from the city of Chiang Mai. From the temple, impressive views of Chiang Mai can be seen. The Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of the most important temples of Northern Thailand.

During the Buddhist holidays of Visakha Bucha day and Makha Bucha Day Thai people come to this temple in great numbers.

The original founding of the temple remains a legend and there are a few varied versions. The temple is said to have been founded in 1383 when the first stupa was built. Over time, the temple has expanded, and been made to look more extravagant with many more holy shrines added. A road to the temple was first built in 1935.

Doi Suthep Mountain

This temple is located on top of the Doi Suthep mountain out of Chiang Mai. From the car park there are two ways to reach the temple. The first is a 309 step pretty vertical climb up the mountain. The stairs are flanked by huge Naga creatures. The Naga is an underwater creature from Buddhist mythology in the form of a large snake. If you don’t feel like climbing, there is a cable car to take you up in comfort.

If the weather is clear you will have some magnificent views of the the city of Chiang Mai, the airport and the Ping valley. The views and the peaceful atmosphere of the place alone is worth the visit.

The legend of the white elephant

There are several versions of the legend of how the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was founded. According to a popular version of the legend a monk from Sukhothai was in possession of a relic believed to be a shoulder bone of The Buddha. This relic was believed to have magical powers. The monk took the relic to King Kuena, ruler of the Lanna Kingdom. When he arrived, the relic had split up in two pieces, one being of the original size, the other one smaller. The smaller part was enshrined in the Wat Suan Dok, a temple just outside the old city of Chiang Mai. The original relic was to be placed in a newly build temple.

To choose the location for the new temple, the relic was placed on the back of a sacred white elephant that was then set free to go where ever it wanted. The elephant climbed up Doi Suthep mountain and just before it arrived at the top, it trumpeted three times and died. This was taken as a sign that this was the place to build a temple to house the relic.

Then in 1368 the first chedi of the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was build to keep the holy relic. Since then, the temple complex has grown considerably. At the top of the stairs is a statue of the white elephant that determined the location of the temple.

Below is a list of popular attractions to visit whilst in Chiang Mai:

Bua Tong Waterfalls, (Travel north from Chiang Mai up Route 1001 approximately 50 to 60km), +66 94 740 2294. Vary. Located in the Sri Lanna National Park, this unique destination is often not listed in any of the major guide books, and tends to be discovered through word of mouth from traveler to traveler. A fairly simple, rather scenic motorbike ride along Route 1001, this trip should take around 45 – 60 minutes at a comfortable, leisurely pace. Known as the “Sticky Waterfalls” due to the limestone deposits that are prevalent throughout.

These mineral deposits provide a grippy surface for hands and feet, allowing one to travel UP a waterfall with relative ease. Very likely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and an absolute must see. Key notes: More powerful in the rainy season (June through September). A popular destination for Thai families on the weekends, so the area will be busier during this time. Some travelers have had a problem seeing the sign leading off of the main road down to the waterfalls; along the way there is a sign stating “Bua Tong 18km”.

This sign can be used as a reference point, so upon seeing this sign, simply keep track of your motorbike odometer from there and the area will be hard to miss.  

Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (at the foot of Doi Suthep), +66 53 893 111. Daily 09:00-17:30. Extremely popular with Thai tourists, and so expect long queues. While better than some zoos, the animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. Operates an dual pricing system whereby non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges also apply for both the panda exhibition and the aquarium.

There are more stalls selling the usual trinkets than enclosures, and more human visitors than animals. Not much to recommend, including that the journey from the city centre can be lengthy because of long queues of cars, the dual pricing system, and the less-than-ideal conditions for the animals.

The car parking facilities are best described as chaotic. 620 THB including Panda, Aquarium and a hop-on-hop-off bus inside the complex which saves a lot of walking and steep roads.(2017 Oct.) worth the money considering the Zoo houses two of the only 35 Pandas which can be seen outside of mainland China. 100 baht. 

Mae Sa Waterfall, (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rt 107. Turn onto Rt 1096 to Samoeng. Travel ~7 km to waterfall on left.) +66 53 210 244. 08:30-16:30. Set in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. The path winds up for almost 2 km to the 8 tiers of cascades. There are many secluded areas off the trail for picnics. Crowded on weekends and holidays. Foreigners, 100 baht; Thais, 20 baht.

Phu Ping Palace (Royal Winter Palace), Suthep 50200 (on Rt 1004, beyond Doi Suthep). This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public daily 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman’s pants to cover your lack of it. This includes ANY leg above the ankle for either gender).

The palace itself (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully curated tropical flowers, as well as centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it’s closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht.  

Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Ram (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rt 107. Turn onto Rt 1096 to Samoeng. Travel 12 km to garden on left.), +66 53 841 234. Daily, 08:30-16:30. Thailand’s oldest and foremost botanical garden. Dedicated to the conservation of Thai flora, it holds collections of, and carries out research on rare and endangered species.

Lovely gardens in a mountain foothills setting. Run by the Botanical Garden Association, Thailand. Adult, 100 baht; child, 50 baht; Adults with a Thai ID card: 40 baht, car (additional) 100 baht. 

 Royal Flora Ratchaphruek, (Take the Canal Road from the city for about 9km south. Turn right at Night Safari junction). A big garden with loads of pretty flowers like orchids. Also has a temple, a (rather worn out) playground for kids, and a bug museum 100THB.  

The Elephant Jungle Sanctuary Chiang Mai was among the first of the new breed of elephant attractions in Thailand which prioritise the welfare of the animals. Often acting as retirement and care homes for elephants previously employed in the logging or tourism industries, they provide as natural an environment for them as possible.

While you can still interact with the elephants (bathing them being an especially popular activity), riding on them is strictly out of the question.

Location: Office on Tha Phae Road

Website: https://www.facebook.com/elephantjunglesanctuary/

Doi Inthanon, the highest peak in Thailand, rises 2,565 metres above sea level. Known as a sanctuary for a wide range of animal species and perhaps the best place in Thailand for bird-watching, the park has approximately 362 different species, many of which are not found anywhere else in Thailand. Doi Inthanon is a popular destination, not only for its natural beauty, but also for its historical significance.

At Chiang Dao cave, the caverns stretch many kilometres into the mountain yet only a small part of the complex is possible to explore. Two of the caves, Tham Phra Nawn and Tham Seua Dao, are illuminated by electric lights, but the upper caves are pitch-black and requires a local lantern-carrying guides to lead the way. There are some spectacular limestone formations and Buddhist shrines in these caves.

Doi Pui, at 1,685 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park. It is famous for its beautiful waterfalls which are easily reached from the main road. But one of the hottest attractions for Doi Pui must be Hmong Tribal Village situated less than five kilometres from the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. A visit to this village is an eye-opener into the tribal villagers’ private life.

WEATHER

Climate: Chiang Mai’s northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of much of Central, Eastern and Southern Thailand. Chiang Mai has a tropical wet and dry climate, tempered by the low latitude and moderate elevation, with warm to hot weather year-round, though nighttime conditions during the dry season can be cool and are much lower than daytime highs. The maximum temperature ever recorded is 42.4 °C (108.3 °F) in May 2005. As with the rest of Thailand there are three seasons.

A cool/dry season from mid Oct-mid Feb (it’s really only cool at night, and a few days here and there in Dec/Jan).

A hot season from mid Feb-mid Jun (hot, hot, hot).

A wet season from mid Jun-mid Oct (hot and wet, though cooler than the hot season, clouds and the occasional downpour help cool things off).

However, note that it can be hot in the cool season (during the day), wet in the cool/dry season (though days go by without rain, it is not unheard of), and dry (and hot) in the wet season. One nice thing about the wet season is that the prevalence of clouds can moderate the heat.

From late February through April (and sometimes into May) is the region’s burning season. This is throughout Northern Thailand, Northeastern Myanmar, and Northern Laos during this time. Traditional “Slash-and-burn” agriculture, waste from rice and maize harvests is burned this time of year, together with forest clearing and general trash disposal.

This is a time of moderate to severe health impacts. The air pollution may be tracked at aqicn.org. The Fire Mapper website using satellite data can show the extent of the burning in the region (and globally).

TAKE A TRAIN TRIP

Travel by Train: Leaving from Bangkok – Services from Bangkok’s train station in Hua Lamphong leave on a regular daily schedule and take 14-16 hours to reach Chiang Mai. If you go by night train (recommended), try to choose one which arrives late to get an opportunity to see the landscapes. They are really impressive, with bridges, forest, villages and fields.

Daytime services leave at 08:30, and 14:30 with second-class (281 baht) and third-class (121 baht) carriages. The seats in each class differ in softness and width and become uncomfortable after 10+ hours.

Overnight sleepers provide comfortable bunks with clean sheets and pillows in first- and second-class. First-class beds (~1,400 baht) are in private two-bed compartments; in some trains first class compartments have only one berth and cost 500 baht more than usual, and whole compartments can be booked for single occupancy for the same amount. In second-class (~900 baht), the carriages are open but each bunk has a curtain for privacy.

First-class is always air-con, second class is sometimes air-con. There are usually four trains per day with sleeper accommodation, though only two of these will have first-class compartments. Station staff will be able to help you.

Newer types of carriages are kept clean; the toilet and floors are regularly mopped during the journey. However the older type of second class carriages may have unpleasant toilet compartments (messy floors, bad odour even from the journey start). Vendors make regular rounds selling snacks, drinks and lacklustre meals.

Vendors will try to inflate the prices for tourists so be prepared to get ripped off, haggle, hop off quickly at stations or bring your own. Since 2015 State Railways of Thailand stopped selling alcoholic beverages on all trains, and bringing your own alcohol is not permitted on board.

In second-class, the bunks are arranged lengthways along the train, with only a curtain separating the berths and the central aisle. At some point in the evening, or on request, the attendant hinges down the top bunk to form the upper single berth and adjusts the seats to form the lower single berth. In the morning, bunks are folded away leaving pairs of facing seats. Be aware – on a recent train trip from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the latch securing the heavy upper berth to the carriage wall unlocked itself, causing the berth to come crashing down above the heads of seated passengers. It was only luck that no-one was struck by the falling frame, as the weight could have caused serious injury.

In first-class, the bottom bunk is used as a bench seat before having a futon mattress deployed onto it in the evening.

If you’re not in the mood for bed when your carriage mates are bedding down, you can head off to the dining car, which provides fairly good food and drink at not too great a premium. Later in the night, the dining car can turn into a disco, complete with loud music and flashing lights.

Tickets can be bought up to 60 days in advance at any station in Thailand. Booking in advance is advised, especially for the popular 2nd-class overnight sleepers. Larger stations accept payment with Visa/MasterCard. This is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company. Since February 2015 trains from Bangkok to Chiang Mai can be booked online, even more than 60 days in advance.

SRT has rules set for the advance booking based mostly on the percentage of the whole trip. Like, say, Chiang Mai – Bangkok tickets can be bought 60 days in advance, Chiang Mai – Phitsanulok or Sukhothai would be 30 days, while Ayutthaya is still 60 days (because it’s over half of the trip). This has to be taken into consideration when planning trips from Chiang Mai – as trains are usually full, especially during high season (Oct-Feb, Apr).
1st and 2nd class air-con sleeper tickets are 150-200 baht more expensive than fan-only car tickets.

Various travel agencies, some available to contact from outside Thailand, can also procure tickets for delivery or pick up, with fees typically starting at 200 baht. If at the train station they said that at train is sold out, try the small agencies, they may still find you a ticket (although unlikely because ticket is usually issued for a name and passport number). Be aware of ‘scalping’ and do not pay ridiculously high prices.

Seating only Air conditioned service available as on October 2017 at 641 THB includes refreshments and hot meals served by a pleasant onboard hostess. depart Chiang Mai 8.50 AM offering fantastic views all along the way in day light. clean toilets too. SRT charges 90 baht to transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai train station is about 3 km east of the city centre. Plentiful songthaews and tuk-tuks await each train’s arrival. If you want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Rd); this road goes directly to city centre.

Last time advice: the air conditioning can be very powerful. Don’t forget to bring a jacket with you or you are going to spend a bad night.

MAE HONG SON 

Trekking – one of the main reasons for tourist to go to Mae Hong Son is to go trekking in the surrounding mountains and visiting hilltribe villages. Nearly every guest house offers tours. There are also many other tours on offer.

Su Tong Pae Bamboo Bridge (Bamboo Bridge), Ban Kung Mai Sak (15 minutes north of the city of mae Hong Son on the road to Ban Ruk Thai). A beautiful bamboo bridge joining the village of Ban Kung Mai Sak with the temple Wat Pu Sama. Spanning approx. 900 meters over the paddy fields creating a spectacle for all to enjoy.

Phu Klon Mud Spa, 132/2 Mokjampae, Mae Hong Son (Take the road north out of Mae Hong Son and turn off left on the Ban Rak Thai road. The mud spa is very well signposted.). A full mud spa package lasts 90 minutes and costs 1,200 baht, or have a mud face mask, lasting 15 minutes, for 80 baht — other muddy treatments are also available.  

Tham Pla–Namtok Pha Suea National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติ ถ้ำปลา – น้ำตกผาเสื่อ) covers more than 488 square kilometres of the “Thanon Thongchai” range that separates Thailand from Burma. The “Doi-Larn” is the highest peak in the area, with an elevaton of about 1,918 m. Both Tham Pla Fish Cave Pha Sua Waterfall are located in the National Park.

Tham Pla Fish Cave (อุทยานแห่งชาติถ้ำปลา), (near the village of Huay Pha, about 17 km from Mae Hong Son on Highway 1095). A beautiful spot to escape the heat; a water channel that leads its way out of a small submerged cave. What is inside the cave is still unknown to us, but it astoundingly draws thousands of the “Pluang-Hin” fish into the cave, with only a small number of them coming back out. 100bt.  

Pha Sua Waterfall, (26 km North of Mae Hong Son on the road to Ban Rak Thai). This waterfall consists of six levels and offers some fine walks. This waterfall is about 20 m high and 30 m wide. It is said to be the most beautiful waterfall in Mae Hong Son Province. During the rainy season, the abundant rainfall makes the waterfall look like a rolling mat.  

Pang Tong Palace (Queen’s residence and royal projects), (Near Pha Suea Waterfall on the way to Ban Rak Thai). Beautiful manicured gardens, agricultural areas including animals such as sheep, some caged wild cats (Leopards etc) and many caged birds including large Hornbills.

Ban Rak Thai (Mae Aw) is a KMT (Kuomintang) village near the Myanmar border (about 45km North of Mae Hong Son). On your way up (or down), you can stop by Pang Ung (Ruam Thai), a picturesque Shan minority village high in the mountains. You will also pass Pha Sua Waterfalland Pang Tong Palace along the route.

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