The Kingdom of Sukhothai (Thai: สุโขทัย; pronunciation) was an early kingdom in the area around the city Sukhothai, in north central Thailand. The Kingdom existed from 1238 until 1438. The old capital, now 12 km outside of Sukhothai in Tambon Mueang Kao, is in ruins and has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Historical Park.
Prior to the 13th century, Tai kingdoms had existed in the northern highlands including the Ngoenyang Kingdom of the Tai Yuan people (centred on Chiang Saen and the predecessor of the Lan Na), and the Heokam Kingdom of the Tai Lue people (centred on Chiang Hung, modern Jinghong in China). Sukhothai had been a trade centre and part of Lavo (present day Lopburi), which was under the domination of the Khmer Empire. The migration of Tai people into the upper Chao Phraya valley was somewhat gradual.
Modern historians stated that the secession of Sukhothai (also spelled Sukhodaya) from the Khmer empire began as early as 1180 during the reign of Pho Khun Sri Naw Namthom who was the ruler of Sukhothai and the peripheral city of Si Satchanalai (now a part of Sukhothai Province as Amphoe). Sukhothai had enjoyed a substantial autonomy until it was reconquered around 1180 by the Mon people of Lavo under Khomsabad Khlonlampong.
Two friends, Pho Khun Bangklanghao and Pho Khun Pha Mueang revolted against the Khmer Empire governor of Sukhothai. Khun, before becoming a Thai feudal title, was a Tai title for a ruler of a fortified town and its surrounding villages, together called a mueang; in older usage prefixed by pho (พ่อ) “father”(comparable in sound and meaning to rural English Paw). Bangklanghao ruled Sukhothai as Sri Indraditya – and began the Phra Ruang Dynasty – he expanded his primordial kingdom to the bordering cities. At the end of his reign in 1257, the Sukhothai kingdom covered the entire upper valley of the Chao Phraya River (then known simply as Menam, “Mother of Waters,” the generic Thai name for rivers.)
Traditional Thai historians considered the foundation of the Sukhothai kingdom as the beginning of their nation because little was known about the kingdoms prior to Sukhothai. Modern historical studies demonstrate that Thai history began before Sukhothai. Yet the foundation of Sukhothai is still a celebrated event.
The capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom is fondly referred to as the Dawn of Happiness. The 13th-century Sukhothai Historical Park features the ancient remains of Sukhothai. In addition, this park exhibits one of Thailand’s 21 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The recreation centre here incorporates four extensive lakes inside old dividers, with 70 destinations inside a 5 km (3.1 mile) span.
The remains are divided into five zones. The design of the Sukhothai temples is epitomised in the great lotus-bud, highlighting a tapered tower on a three-layered base. Observe the rich architecture, like the bell shaped Sinhalese and two-fold Srivijaya chedi. Regardless of being famous, this park is huge and you could definitely use a bicycle to explore it.
Wat Mahathat or Mahathat Temple (Thai: วัดมหาธาตุ) is the most important and impressive temple in Sukhothai Historical Park. The temple’s name translates to “temple of the great relic”. The temple was founded by Sri Indraditya, between 1292 and 1347 as the main temple of the city as well as the Sukhothai Kingdom. The design based on Mandala, representing the universe with main principal stupa, built in 1345 to enshrine relics of the Buddha, surrounded by smaller stupas in eight directions. The main stupa has the graceful shape of a lotus bud, which characterizes the Sukhothai architectural arts.
Its base is adorned with 168 stuccoed sculptings of Buddhist disciples walking with their hands clasped together in salutation. The eight smaller stupas, of which the four at the corners are in Mon Haripunchai – Lanna style and the four in between show Khmer influence. At both sides of the main stupa has two 9 metre tall standing Buddha images called Phra Attharot (Thai: พระอัฏฐารส). The temple also comprises assembly hall (vihara), mandapa, ordination hall and 200 subodinate stupas.
Noen Prasat or Palace Hill (Thai: เนินปราสาท) is the remain of the royal palace of the Kingdom of Sukhothai. The Noen Prasat was discovered in 1833 by Mongkut, who had made a pilgrimage to the north of Siam as a monk. The palace was built on a square base with the dimensions of 200 x 200 meters. Nearby were two small ponds where the archaeologists found the remains of terracotta pipes which probably been used to supply water from city lake to the ponds. In the southwest, there are the remains of a 1.50 meter high brick platform on which they found ashes and bones inside, so It can be assumed that it was the royal cremation place.
The Ramkhamhaeng stele was discovered here by Mongkut. He also discovered the so-called “Manangasila Throne” (Thai: พระแท่นมนังคศิลาอาสน์), an approximately 1m x 2,50m x 15 cm large slab of gray stone, which is decorated with lotus petals depiction. In the Ramkhamhaeng Stele describes that Ramkhamhaeng erected this stone throne in the sugar palm grove. Mongkut brought his findings to Bangkok.
Wat Si Sawai or Si Sawai Temple (Thai: วัดศรีสวาย) is one of the oldest temples in Sukhothai. The temple was founded in the late 12th or early 13th century as Hindu Shrine for Vishnu and the place for Thiruppavai ceremony before the liberation from Lawo and foundation of Sukhothai Kingdom. The temple has three well-preserved laterite prang, representing the Hindu trinity, enclosed by a double rampart and a moat. The lower parts of prangs are apparently Khmer, while the upper have been expanded or renovated by Thai in brick and stucco. The central prang is held in Lawo or Hindu-style.
Each prang contains a cella, possibly a podium for lingam and crypt. There are few remain stucco work on the top of central prang. Later around the 14th century the temple was adapted to the needs of the Buddhist faith, vihara have been added in the south of central prang. Numurous Chinese porcelains and Hindu god statues had been found in the area, one of artifect is the Shiva statue discovered by Vajiravudh in 1907. The temple is important for study how Khmer art transforming into Thai art.
Wat Phra Phai Luang (Thai: วัดพระพายหลวง) was the ritual center of Sukhothai and the biggest temple in the city area. Built in the late 12th century during the reign of Jayavarman VII when the city was still under control of Khmer–Lavo. After the liberation and the construction of Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Phai Luang lost it main ceremonial role and become Theravada Buddhist temple. Similar to Wat Si Sawai, the temple has three laterite prang, but only one still preserved in good condition. Archaeologists suspect that the three prangs originally stood on a common laterite base. All three prangs were open to the east, with doors flanked by columns which carry a richly decorated tympanum depicting scenes from the life of Buddha.
The doors on the other three sides were so-called “false doors”. The tympanum The complex is enclosed by double moat. The outer moat is 600 meters length and is fed by the Lam-Pan River. In the north-west of prang complex are the remains of late 14th century vihara, mandapa and a small ordination hall with eight Bai Sema. The temple is an important place to study the transition of Khmer art to Thai art. Since in the 14th century the prang has been renovated by adding elaborate stucco in leaves and frames patterns which become the basic pattern of Thai art; however, most of stucco arts are now kept at Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.
Wat Asokārām (Thai: วัดอโศการาม) or Wat Salat Dai (Thai: วัดสลัดได) was founded in the time of Sukhothai Kingdom in the reign of Sailuethai in 1399. The name of Asokaram was forgotten for a long time. Locals called the temple “Wat Salat Dai” because the terrain of Euphorbia antiquorum (Thai: สลัดได) was overgrown in the temple area. In 1958 treasure hunters dug the stupa, they found a stone inscription. Today it is on display in the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. The stone inscription informed that Wat Asokaram was found in 1399 by the widow of Luethai, the Queen Mother, the “Satṃtec brah Rājadebī Sri Cuḷālakṣana Arrgarājamahesī Debadhòranī Tilakaratana”.
She was the daughter of Lithai. By her husband, Luethai they had two sons, Sailuethai, and Asoka. It is not clear why she named the temple Asokaram. One possible reason is to be a monument for her son, Asoka, other reason might have been even the name of an ancestor or even the Indian ruler Asoka. Another possibility is the name refers to “Asoka trees” Saraca asoca that are common on the temple grounds. The temple attractions are the large 5-stage step pyramid stupa, a vihara, a mandapa, and foundations of smaller pagodas.
The ticketing and admission fees for the Sukhothai area are a little complex. There are two main zones, northern and central. The central zone is the area with the yellow route marked above, the northern zone is the area with the moat north of the main city wall. There is plenty to see for free as monuments dot the landscape inside and outside the city walls. At dawn ( while running) we could explore much of the northern area without buying a ticket, but later in the day we bought a ticket for the same area with the addition of Wat Sri Chum ( see below), which is fenced and guarded. Tickets come in various combinations.
The main ( central) area is tightly fenced and has designated opening times, we were unable to get in there for sunrise at all, but sunset is recommended. Outside town there is a sunrise point ( Wat Saphanhin) that is possible with views over the landscape and the Wat’s own standing Buddha. There is a ticket for this, but my husband, again running, didn’t need one. We left almost as confused about tickets as when we arrived, but we’ll say that it is very much worth buying all of these tickets, don’t skip them because of cost.
GETTING THERE
Sukhothai is well served by roads, which is just as well with the nearest railway station, Sawankhalok, being approximately 50 km away and Phitsanulok station ( on the more frequently running north -south Thailand train line) nearly 75 km away.
Sawankhalok railway station is the closest to Sukhothai but it is still 40 km north of New Sukhothai and nearly 50 km North West of Historic Old Sukhothai. There is one train direct from Bangkok Hua Lamphong Station to Sawankhalok, the journey is almost 7 hours, departing at 10.50 hours arriving at 17:46.
Currently there is no direct train to Chiang Mai from Sawankhalok.
Buses from Sukhothai Old Town bus station depart to Chiang Mai in the north and both Ayuthaya and Bangkok in the south. The journey to Chiang Mai is approximately 4 hours, upwards of 7 hours to Ayuthaya and 9 hours to Mo Chit bus terminal in Bangkok. There are more departures and arrivals from Sukhothai New Town bus station than from the Old Town. Buses from Sukhothai Old Town tend to be newer, which makes for a nicer ride especially on the 9 hour route to Bangkok.
Tickets can be bought in the middle of Sukhothai Old Town at the small roadside bus station and you can even pay with credit or debit cards for a fee.
There is also a Sukhothai Airport, although it only services Bangkok via Bangkok Airways. Planes travel in both directions twice per day. Flying time is just over an hour and Bangkok Airways also sell transfers to either the New Town or Historical Old Town.
The classic way to tour Sukhothai is by bike and there are places to hire them all over town. Your hotel, hostel or guest house may even loan or rent you a bike. Parts of the site, beyond the main walls, are free to enter and it’s lovely to tour these solo by bicycle. My husband and I run, so we got out to these areas at dawn, on foot. It’s quiet and stunning before the other visitors are awake. You can also tour the main Sukhothai site, inside the main ticketed area, by bike.
You can tour independently or arrange a guide and tour. It’s hot, be prepared for that with sunscreen, protective clothes and water, but the distances aren’t huge and mostly the roads and paths are very quiet. We did see a serious, probably fatal, accident here, a local guy riding a scooter collided with a turning car on the main road. I’ll never forget the sound of skull hitting tarmac. Wear a helmet.
If you want to get the most out of any historic site we firmly believe that it’s best to have a guide. We’ve learned this through experience. Sure, enjoying the beauty can be done solo and you could read up on all this before you go, but we always love paying somebody to show us around.
The sites are huge and it gets very hot. Also there are quite a few places where it would be easy for young children to fall from the ruins. Keep a close eye on your kids and be prepared for heat, sunburn and dehydration. It could be very temping for children to climb where they are not supposed to. In some areas it’s expected, in others forbidden.
Because the site is huge and we did it over 3 days, my 2 boys were pretty much ” templed out”. We had to hit the Historic Park in short bursts with plenty of down time in between to keep them sweet. The long bus ride to and from Sukhothai also wasn’t a winner with them. We thought touring by golf buggy was ideal for the kids, shade, a cool breeze and far more fun than walking.
ACTIVITIES
SUKHOTHAI MINI LIGHT & SOUND
Sukhothai Mini Light & Sound (son et lumiere) show at Sa Si Temple in Sukhothai Historical Park is held every first Friday of each month at 7:00 p.m. The performance is about the history and prosperity of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The ancient temple, Wat Sa Si, forms the backdrop of the show. There is no admission fee to see this show.
Just before or after the show, you may enjoy Pasan Market, the local market next to Sa Sri temple. It is a local walking street market that replicates the old time of Sukhothai. There are a various kind of traditional drinks or snacks that are rare to find nowadays.
SUKHOTHAI AIRPORT – TRANQUIL AIRPORT COMPLEX
When visiting Sukhothai, there are a surprising number of things to see and do at Sukhothai Airport. Lush gardens and an orchid greenhouse; exhibitions of ancient ceramics as well as live demonstrations of local pottery making; an organic rice farm where traditional rice-growing techniques are still maintained, including the use of water buffalo to plough the paddies; shrines to important local religious deities such as Brahma and Luang Poh Sila; a scale model replica of Cambodia’s famed Angkor Wat; and for those who would rather absorb the local culture gastronomically, the Kueytiew Lanbin Restaurant is the place to go to get a taste f sumptuous Sukhothai noodles!
